Snap decision: how to use up asparagus stalks | Food

March 2024 · 3 minute read
Amazing waste: Tom Hunt’s asparagus stalk soup. Photograph: Tom Hunt/The GuardianAmazing waste: Tom Hunt’s asparagus stalk soup. Photograph: Tom Hunt/The Guardian
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Snap decision: how to use up asparagus stalks

Asparagus stalks are usually snapped off and discarded, but here’s a tip: they’re packed with flavour, so use them in a soup

The British asparagus season is just beginning and, as a seasonal eater, I’ve waited about 10 months for this delectable spear of sweet vegetable goodness to become available again. Asparagus is more delicious the fresher it is – ideally, eaten on the day it’s harvested – so it’s best to buy it from as close to home as possible, which has the added benefit of reducing carbon emissions.

At the start of its season, asparagus is more costly, which is one good reason to make sure you cook with everything you’ve paid for by weight. We’ve long been told that you should bend a spear of asparagus until it snaps, and that the thick end is too tough to eat. This is not strictly true, because the spear snaps at its weakest point, and the stalk is edible and tender far below that point. The best way to judge where to cut off the stalk is by tasting it. Cut off the very end, taste, and if it is fibrous, cut off a little more and try again. When you find the point where it becomes tender, cut the bunch and save the ends to make asparagus stalk soup.

Asparagus stalk soup

Just like the tips, asparagus ends have the most exquisite flavour that can be used to make delectable soups and sauces. If you’re having asparagus spears for dinner and don’t want to include a soup course, store the ends in the freezer until needed. I’ve used oats to thicken this soup, because they are quick to cook, but by all means swap them for potatoes or any other starchy vegetable and adjust the cooking time accordingly.

Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
100g leek greens
, finely sliced (ie, from about 1 leek)
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
75ml white wine (optional)
30g oats
500ml vegetable stock
(or water)
120g asparagus stalks – ie, the ends from a bunch
50g spinach
4 tbsp soya or dairy yoghurt
, to serve (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the leek greens and garlic, and saute for a few minutes. Add the white wine, bring to a boil for a minute, so the alcohol burns off, then add the oats and stock. Bring to a boil, add the asparagus ends, simmer for five minutes, then add the spinach and stir until the leaves wilt. Blend the soup, then pass through a sieve. Serve hot with a dollop of yoghurt and/or a dash of olive oil.

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